Not All Paper Is the Same: A Type-by-Type Guide for Your Printer
Grab any ream of paper off a shelf and it looks the same. It isn't. Weight, coating, fiber content, and what device it's actually made for, all change how it performs in your printer. Using the wrong type is one of the most common, most avoidable causes of jams, smudging, wasted toner and printer issues. Here's what each type actually is, and whether it's the right or wrong call.
Standard Copy Paper
The default ream most offices buy without thinking twice, typically around 75-80 GSM (20 lb).
Good for: use in copiers whether it's everyday, high-volume, text-heavy printing.
Bad for: anything image-heavy. It's thin enough that ink can show through the back of the page (poor opacity), and color or graphics-heavy prints and can look noticeably less crisp than on a slightly heavier stock. It's prone to jamming if your office humidity is too high or too low, since there's less fiber mass to resist warping and repel static electritity. Bad for laser printers and InkJets.
Verdict: keep it for internal use, but don't use it as your only paper if you're regularly coping anything that leaves the building.
Multipurpose Paper
Often confused with standard copy paper, and similar in weight, but typically brighter (higher brightness rating) and better engineered to handle both text, basic graphics and repels static electritity.
Good for: laser printers as it can handle the heat. Good middle-ground choice if your office prints a mix of internal documents and the occasional client-facing piece.
Bad for: heavy color graphics or anything that needs to look genuinely premium, bond or laser/inkjet-specific paper will outperform it there.
Verdict: a reasonable multi paper purpose that can be use in multiple devices for offices that don't want to stock two separate paper types for "everyday" vs. "looks decent."
Bond Paper
Heavier and more durable than standard copy paper, traditionally made with a higher cotton or rag content, typically 24-32 lb (90-120 GSM).
Good for: letterhead, contracts, resumes, certificates, anything where the paper itself needs to convey "this matters." It holds up better over time and feels noticeably more substantial.
Bad for: routine, high-volume printing, it costs meaningfully more per page, and there's no benefit to using premium paper for an internal draft no one will keep.
Verdict: stock a small amount specifically for client-facing or official documents, not as your everyday paper.
Laser-Specific Paper
Designed to handle the heat laser printers use to fuse toner onto the page. Has a smoother surface so toner adheres evenly.
Good for: any laser printer, especially when you want sharper text edges and more consistent toner coverage than standard copy paper provides.
Bad for: inkjet printers. Laser paper's coating isn't designed to absorb liquid ink properly, so using it in an inkjet machine can lead to smudging or uneven saturation.
Verdict: worth the modest upgrade for laser printers handling anything that leaves your office, but check your printer's manual since most standard laser printers handle plain copy paper fine for everyday use too.
Inkjet-Specific Paper
Built with a coating that absorbs liquid ink without bleeding, often with a tighter weave than standard paper.
Good for: inkjet printers, particularly for anything color-heavy, photo-quality, or design-related, where bleed and saturation control actually matter.
Bad for: laser printers. This is the one combination to genuinely avoid: laser printer fusers run hot enough to melt or warp coatings designed for inkjet, which can damage the printer itself, not just the print quality.
Verdict: essential if you're doing any quality color or photo work on an inkjet machine; skip it for laser printers entirely.
Recycled Paper
Made partly or fully from post-consumer recycled fiber rather than virgin wood pulp.
Good for: everyday printing, while supporting the same sustainability goals behind any cartridge-recycling program. A common concern is that recycled paper jams printers more or creates more dust, but that reputation traces back largely to testing from the late 1990s (Canon, Lexmark, and the U.S. Government Printing Office all ran large-scale tests and found no meaningful difference) and to poor-quality paper in general being mislabeled as the culprit. The honest answer: it's manufacturing quality that causes jams and dust, not recycled content itself. A well-made recycled ream performs essentially the same as a well-made virgin ream.
Bad for: archival or long-term storage documents, since recycled fiber can only be reprocessed a limited number of times and isn't always held to the same long-term durability standard as bond paper made for that purpose.
Verdict: a solid, responsible default for everyday printing, just buy from a reputable supplier rather than the cheapest unmarked ream you can find, the same advice that applies to virgin paper too.
Cardstock and Specialty Paper
Significantly heavier than standard paper, often 150 GSM and well beyond, used for business cards, postcards, presentation covers, and similar materials.
Good for: anything that needs to feel substantial and stand on its own, business cards, menus, presentation covers.
Bad for: most everyday office printers. Many standard desktop printers aren't rated to feed paper this heavy through the main tray, and forcing it through can jam the feed mechanism or stress the rollers over time. Some machines can handle it only through a manual bypass tray, if at all.
Verdict: check your printer's maximum rated paper weight before buying any cardstock, and use the bypass/manual tray if your printer has one. When in doubt, a quick call to confirm is faster than guessing and dealing with a jam.
Quick Reference: Which Paper for Which Job
| If you're printing… | Use… |
|---|---|
| Internal memos, drafts, everyday documents | Standard copy paper or multipurpose paper |
| Client-facing letters, contracts, resumes | Multipurpose or bond paper |
| Anything on a laser printer leaving the office | Multipurpose or laser-specific paper |
| Color or photo-quality work on an inkjet printer | Inkjet-specific paper |
| Everyday printing with a sustainability goal | Recycled paper, from a reputable supplier |
| Business cards, postcards, presentation covers | Cardstock, checked against your printer's max weight |
One More Factor Worth Knowing: Humidity Affects Every Type
Whichever paper type you choose, it's still made from wood fibers, and wood fibers absorb and release moisture depending on the humidity in the room. That's why the same paper that performed perfectly all spring can suddenly start curling, jamming, or smudging when the seasons change, the paper hasn't changed, the air around it has. This affects every category above to some degree; heavier papers like bond and cardstock resist it somewhat better than lightweight copy paper, but nothing is fully immune.
If you're choosing the right type for your printer and still seeing jams or print quality issues, humidity in your office is worth ruling out next.
When It's Not the Paper
If you've matched the right paper type and weight to your printer and you're still seeing frequent jams or print quality problems, the issue is more likely mechanical, worn feed rollers, a misaligned tray, or a part that's reached the end of its life. That's a different problem with a different fix.
Repair My PrinterFrequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between copy paper and printer paper?
"Copy paper" and "printer paper" are often used interchangeably, but in practice, copy paper usually refers to standard, lightweight, all-purpose paper (around 20 lb / 75-80 GSM), while "printer paper" can refer more broadly to any paper designed for printing, including heavier or specialty types. When in doubt, check the weight and intended printer type listed on the package rather than relying on the label name alone.
Can I use laser paper in an inkjet printer, or inkjet paper in a laser printer?
Laser paper can usually be used in an inkjet printer without damage, though print quality may suffer slightly since it isn't coated to absorb liquid ink. Inkjet paper should never be used in a laser printer, since the laser's fuser heat can melt or warp coatings designed for inkjet, which can damage the printer itself.
Does recycled paper really jam printers more than regular paper?
No, not because it's recycled. Large-scale testing by major printer manufacturers found no meaningful difference between well-made recycled and virgin paper. Jamming and dust issues are caused by poor manufacturing quality, which can happen with either type, not by recycled content itself.
What paper weight should I use for everyday office printing?
Standard 75-90 GSM (20-24 lb) paper is the right choice for most everyday, high-volume office printing. Save heavier weights for client-facing documents or specialty materials where the extra durability and feel matter.
Can my printer handle cardstock?
Maybe, check your printer's specifications for its maximum rated paper weight before loading cardstock. Many desktop printers can only feed heavy stock through a manual bypass tray, if at all. Forcing paper that's too heavy through the main tray is a common cause of jams.
Why does the same paper sometimes jam and sometimes not?
This is almost always a humidity issue. Paper absorbs and releases moisture depending on the air around it, so the same ream can behave differently depending on the season or how it's been stored, even though nothing about the paper itself has changed.
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